The Skerper Arkansas natural sharpening stones come from the mountains of the American state carrying the same name. The stones are mined, cut to size and expertly flattened. There are various versions of these Arkansas stones, in five different grit sizes. From restoring to polishing the edge: with Skerper Arkansas natural stones you will have the right sharpening stone for each step in the sharpening process.

Skerper Arkansas

Skerper Arkansas

## Soft and Hard Arkansas sharpening stones.


Characterizing for these stones is the high grain density. As a result the Arkansas sharpening stones are very hard and waterproof. They are available in grain sizes ranging from approximately 400 to 10.000. Based on these grain sizes the stones are characterized as Soft Arkansas, Hard Arkansas, Hard Black Arkansas, Surgical Black Arkansas and Translucent Arkansas. With the exception of the Translucent Arkansas stones, which have a light colour and are 'translucent', the stones are darker as they become harder. The Surgical Black Arkansas stone is thus the darkest stone available.


## Oil stones: for years of sharpening pleasure


Arkansas stones work best when combined with oil. The oil makes sure the sharpening residue is more easily removed. In addition, you will experience less resistance while sharpening. Oil stones also wear out less quickly. As such you can enjoy them for years and only have to lap them occasionally.

Arkansas sharpening stones

Arkansas sharpening stones

With a Hapstone whetstone, you are sure to get the best whetstones for your sharpening system. With the different materials and grit sizes, bring your knives to the desired sharpness level. From coarse grit sizes for reshaping a blunt knife to ultra-fine stones for polishing the edge. All stones are fully compatible with all Hapstone systems and fit effortlessly into the stone holders. Whether you are a fan of natural Arkansas stones, synthetic Shapton Pros or Idahone stones, Hapstone always offers the right choice.

Hapstone sharpening stones

Hapstone sharpening stones

Although stones are mined in many places all around the world to be used as sharpening stones, there are great differences in the way they work. Each type of stone has a different composition. Even amongst sharpening stones from the same mountains you can often find clear contrasts. Factors that play an important role in the proper functioning of a natural sharpening stone are the grain size, the shape of the grains and the way they are bound together.


## Where are natural stones mined?


There are a couple of mountains known for the mining of natural stones (which, of course, still need to be cut to size and flattened). Two important natural stone sources are the Belgian Ardennes and the American Ouachita Mountains in Arkansas. In addition, in the French-Spanish Pyrenees and the Dolomites (Italy) you can find usable natural stones.


The Arkansas stones are comprised of novaculite, a material which can only be found in these mountains. The grain density which leads to a very hard, waterproof stone is of great importance here. Depending on the part of the mountain range where they are mined, Arkansas stones are available with a relatively low grain size (approximately 400 to 600), but also with a very high grain size (approximately grain 10,000).


## Arkansas stones are oil stones


The sharpening stones from the Ouachita Mountains are best used in combination with oil. It is because of the extreme grain density. The oil removes the sharpening residue more easily and leaves you with less resistance while sharpening. The main advantage of oil stones, compared to water stones, is that they don't wear out as fast. They often last for years. The disadvantage is the hardness which ensures that sharpening takes a relatively long time because the stones remove little material.


## Belgian chunks from the Ardennes


Coticule whetstones, formerly known as Belgian Chunks come from the Ardennes. The grain size of these sharpening stones is difficult to determine. The remarkable thing here is that you can determine the coarseness of the stone yourself. The thicker the slurry you create, the lower the grain size (which varies between 1000 and 16,000). Adding a lot of water naturally leads to a thinner slurry and therefore a more polishing effect.


Another tip to get a finer 'grain' is to use talcum powder instead of water. The smoothness of the edge is also largely determined by the amount of pressure applied when sharpening. The less pressure, the flatter and therefore sharper the edge.

Natural sharpening stones

Natural sharpening stones

## Grain sizes for whetstones

Whetstones - also called sharpening stones and often [unjustifiably confused](kato://content/migrated_topic_426) with water stones - are available with many different grain sizes. The state of your knife depends which stone you need. What is clear though is that you always need multiple whetstones to sharpen your knife. Here the following applies: the blunter your edge, the more stones you will need and the lower the grain size will be with which you start the sharpening process. A lower grain size namely represents a coarser stone, and a high grain a fine stone. Finally, you can polish your knife with the leather strop.

## What is a whetstone comprised of?

A one-sided sharpening stone is often comprised of sharpening grains and a cohesive agent. Sometimes the sharpening stone is fixed to a non-slip surface. Slate, for example. The sharpening grains can be made from different materials. Ceramics, aluminium oxide and silicon carbide are the most common versions when it comes to synthetic whetstones. Natural stones are mostly comprised of garnets or novaculite, in the case of Arkansas stones.

The second 'component' of a whetstone is, as mentioned before, the cohesive agent that holds the grains together. This determines the hardness of the stone and how coarse or fine it is. Synthetic resin is often used as a cohesive agent. But also magnesium and ceramic bound whetstones are popular.

## Types of whetstones

Whetstones come in all shapes and sizes. There are, for instance, Japanese whetstones, diamond-coated sharpening stones, ceramic whetstones, natural sharpening stones, combination sharpening stones and many more. There are also complete sharpening stone sets to make sure you immediately get all grain sizes you need.

Whetstones

With Skerper sharpening products you make sure your knives are razor-sharp again! From the Skerper Basic sharpening stones to the Skerper Professional sharpening stones: sharpening has never been this practical and cost-effective. It doesn't matter if you're new to sharpening or if you have years of experience: Skerper has something for everyone!

Skerper 

Sharpening on sharpening stones or whetstones gives you a true sense of craftsmanship. You will get to know the characteristic features of your knife better and better. In addition, your personal sharpening style gives your knife a unique edge. The only thing you need to know is this: how do I choose the right sharpening stone?


## Grain sizes of sharpening stones/whetstones


Which sharpening stone you need completely depends on the state of your knife. And with 'which sharpening stone' we mean 'which grain size'. The blunter your knife, the coarser the stone needs to be. In other words: the lower the grain size. If your knife is still relatively sharp one sharpening stone with a relatively high grain size will be enough (let's say 800 or higher). If your knife is blunt you will need multiple stones. First a coarse stone (grain size 120) to restore the fold, followed by other sharpening stones in increasing grain sizes to sharpen the edge and finally a strop to polish the blade. But you can read more about this in our info-topic about [sharpening on sharpening stones](kato://content/migrated_topic_61).


## Material sharpening stones/whetstones


A whetstone is in most cases a composition of a basic stone, sharpening particles and a binding agent. [Skerper Arkansas](kato://content/migrated_pageid_303) and [Ardennes Coticule](kato://content/migrated_pageid_247) stones, however, are completely natural. The sharpening particles have cutting edges that ensure they can sharpen. As soon as a sharpening stone is used, small parts of the grain break off after which a new cutting edge emerges.


These particles can be made from different materials. Materials often used are carbide, ceramics, aluminium oxide and novaculite. The strongest sharpening stones have a diamond coating that cannot wear out which is also why these stones can be used as flattening stones. Flattening stones can be used to flatten your hollowed out sharpening stone. You can read more about this in the info-topic: [Sharpening stone materials: which are the best](kato://content/migrated_topic_570)?


## Binding agent


The binding agent keeping the sharpening particles together is also important. Synthetic resin is an agent that is often used. But magnesium and ceramic-bound sharpening stones are relatively common. Other binding agents are inorganic compound, nickel, synthetic sapphire and mica. The binding agent used determines the amount of sharpening particles per surface unit and thus how fast and precise you can sharpen. Some binding agents, such as magnesium, however, cannot handle water and can therefore not be submerged in water. Definitely something to take into account.


## Brands of sharpening stones


We sell sharpening stones from all famous brands. Think of [Lansky](kato://content/migrated_pageid_301), [Naniwa](kato://content/migrated_pageid_374), [Shapton](kato://content/migrated_pageid_280), [Spyderco](kato://content/migrated_pageid_317) and many more. Affordable but top-quality sharpening stones are our own Skerper whetstones.

Sharpening stones

Sharpening stones

## Features of the Sod Buster

### Shapes and sizes

The Sod Buster was originally designed for farmers. The blade usually has a drop-point shape. When opened, a slipjoint mechanism offers some resistance. This isn't a full lock though, making this knife legal to carry in many places. These knives are made to be used; aesthetics is not the first priority. Still, we think they happen to look fantastic too. Is the Sod Buster a tad too big for you? Choose the Sod Buster Jr. instead. This is a smaller version of the same knife.

### Suitable cutting tasks for a Sod Buster

Originally, the Sod Buster was an all-purpose knife for farmers. As such, it's perfectly suited for EDC tasks like peeling an apple or opening packaging. It is not a knife for very heavy-duty tasks, but its simple and reliable construction means it won't let you down for general household jobs.

### Different names

The Sod Buster sometimes carries a different name, like the Solinger Hippekniep or the [Rangebuster](kato://product/BO01RY140DAM). The Rangebuster is a fantastic edition that is perfect for farmers, citizens and outdoor enthusiasts. These knives don't look out of place as a gentleman's knife either! As these knives are two-handed openers, they are legal to carry in many places.

### How to maintain a Sod Buster

To keep your Sod Buster in tip-top condition, we recommend regular sharpening. You can use a sharpening system or the [Skerper Arkansas pocket sharpening stone](kato://product/SVNAPO20) with a little bit of [honing oil](kato://product/LSLOL01). To keep the knife's action smooth, you can add a drop from the [Skerper Maintenance Oil pen](kato://product/SVMA002) to the hinge. With regular maintenance, your Sod Buster will last a lifetime.

Sod Buster

Hapstone is a Ukrainian brand founded by a group of knife enthusiasts and engineers who wanted to do things a little differently. Their goal was clear: to develop a sharpening system that is precise, user-friendly, and modular. Everything is fully produced in Ukraine, from the robust base to the clever accessories. With this philosophy, [Hapstone](kato://category/hapstonebrand) grew into a brand appreciated by both beginners and experienced sharpeners.

## Modular sharpening systems

What makes Hapstone special is that you can expand the system as you wish. Think of the Convex Adapter Gen 2 and a scissors or chisel module. For finishing and maintenance, everything is available too: from digital angle meters to ball-end screwdrivers and the trusted “Magic Oil” honing oil for sharpening stones.

Hapstone: Modular for precision in sharpening

There are so many necessary fundamental skills for a woodsman to have in their arsenal. From fire lighting, to camp craft, water purification and knotmanship, just to name a few. It can be overwhelming when you start your outdoors journey to know where your focus should lie, and what skills you should master. With that being said, arguably, one of the most fundamental skills any bushcrafter or outdoor enthusiast can focus on is tool maintenance.  


## Sharpen your skills


With the right knowledge and practice, a belt knife or an axe is going to allow you to thrive comfortably in the woods, making it possible to construct or craft anything you  may need around camp and in some cases can mean the difference been having a fire to cook on and purify your water to going to bed cold and hungry.  


This is why it’s important that tools are kept sharp, clean and ready for any job thrown at them. A dull knife or axe is more dangerous than a sharp one, with unnecessary force  and pressure used with the tool, slipping and messing up is a lot more likely. Incurring an injury due to lack of tool maintenance is inexcusable to a woodsman. As the old saying goes; “look after your tools and they will look after you”.


Yes, it’s true that things like edge geometry, steel compositions and Rockwell hardness are all part of the rabbit hole of knowledge that is outdoor tools, and to some, this may seem like an overwhelming subject to get into. But honestly, with a few basic pieces of understanding, with knowing how your knife or axe was designed and how it should be sharpened, you will be well on your way to hair popping edges on every cutting edge in your house!    There are so many options out there when it comes to sharpening, and everybody will have their preferred way to keep their tools in check. There are everything from traditional Japanese whetstones, industrial diamond coated files, ceramic plates, wet and dry sandpaper and Arkansas Stones to name a few.

Skerper Arkansas Stones: Expert Review by Padraig Croke

Skerper Arkansas Stones: Expert Review by Padraig Croke

There are many different types and sizes of sharpening stones. In this topic we discuss what materials are used to produce sharpening stones and what the (dis)advantages of these materials are. As such you can decide which material will suit you best. Let's start with the short version. Are you interested? If so continue reading to find out more in the extended version!

## In a nutshell:

Sharpening stones can be divided into two categories. Natural sharpening stones and synthetic sharpening stones. Natural sharpening stones are just that, natural stones. These stones were taken from a quarry. Synthetic sharpening stones can be comprised of different materials. The synthetic materials used most often for sharpening stones are ceramics and diamond. Of course each material has its pros and cons.

## Natural sharpening stones

Natural sharpening stones are specific stones that were directly taken from a mountain, cut up into straight pieces and wrapped for shipment. Examples of natural sharpening stones are the [Ardennes coticule](kato://content/migrated_pageid_247) sharpening stones, [Skerper Arkansas](kato://content/migrated_pageid_303) stones and [Belgian Blue stones](kato://content/migrated_pageid_350).

Sharpening stone materials: which are the best?

Sharpening stone, whetstones and water stones: we often come across these terms. Also on our own website. But what are the differences between these terms? Or: are they even different at all?? We offer you an insight into this semantic discussion.


Why not start with ‘sharpening stones’. It is the collective term for all stones you use to sharpen knives, chisels, scissors, axes, in short everything with an edge. There are natural sharpening stones that are taken directly from nature, and artificial sharpening stones that are produced in a factory. The last group is often categorized based on the sharpening material used, or the country of origin. We sell, for instance, ceramic sharpening stones, diamond sharpening stones and Japanese sharpening stones.


## Whetstones


Another term often used for sharpening stones is whetstone. Both terms mean exactly the same. After all to whet is to sharpen! It is a rather dated term but one that is still used regularly.  

The materials used for these sharpening/whetstones are very diverse. Factory stones are mostly made from aluminium oxide, ceramics or diamond. The latter means: they have a diamond-coated sharpening layer, mounted to a steel or aluminium sheet. Natural sharpening stones, such as the [Ardennes Coticule](kato://content/migrated_pageid_247) stones consist of grenades, while stones from the American [Arkansas mountains](kato://content/migrated_pageid_303) have novaculite as an abrasive.


## So what are water stones?


The best sharpening stones (or whetstones) come from Japan. At least that is the generally accepted view, one we gladly endorse. After all, the Japanese are absolute experts when it comes to sharpening. Japanese sharpening stones are made from different materials and should generally be used in combination with water. This creates a ‘slurry’, because the water mixes with the loose sharpening particles. The advantage is that sharpening is easier and faster. In addition, the material that is removed immediately drains away because of the water. As such no metal particles can get caught in the stone which could cause scratches on the knife.


It is therefore not that surprising that Japanese sharpening stones are also often called water stones. Some water stones need to be submerged in water for them to fill up while others are ‘splash & go’. This means that only the surface of the stone needs to be wet and should remain wet during the sharpening process. For practically all Japanese sharpening stones applies that either one of these two methods of using water is necessary or strongly recommended.


The exception being Japanese diamond sharpening stones, such as the [Naniwa Diamond Stones](kato://content/migrated_pageid_902) collection. After all diamonds don’t wear out, which means that no particles are released while sharpening. There is therefore also no such thing as slurry when you sharpen your knives on diamond sharpening stones. You could, however, add a little water to the stone to make sharpening a little easier and less noisier.


## Are water stones exclusively Japanese?


Although they are often used together, ‘Japan’ and ‘water stone’ don’t necessarily have to go together. Not every Japanese sharpening stone is a water stone and not every water stone comes from Japan. Does this mean that non-water stones should be used ‘dry’. No, this is also not the case. Instead of water you could also add a couple drops of oil to the surface of some whetstones. This mostly applies to very hard natural sharpening stones. In general, however, the following applies: most common (non-diamond-coated) whetstones could be typified as water stones. 


The advantage of the (rare) oil stone is that they don’t wear out as quickly as the softer water stones. Water stones, however, remove a lot more material and are therefore a lot faster to work with. The difference between the two is caused by the binding agent that is used. The sharpening particles of a water stone are bound by softer material, the particles of an oil stone by harder material. Magnesium, for instance, which responds strongly to water but is still very strong. For that reason you should never submerge magnesium-bound sharpening stones.


## So the conclusion is…?


To conclude: sharpening stones and whetstones are the same and water stones are a frequently occurring sub-category of these stones. So don’t be confused by the logical suggestion that a whetstones should always be used in combination with water. That is not the case. In addition, water stones don’t always come from Japan.


When choosing a sharpening stone (or stones) you should always keep your goal in mind. Do you want to polish your knives? If you do you shouldn’t choose the diamond sharpening stone or an oil stone. In that case we recommend you always use a water stone with a high grain size. However, if you are also satisfied with less sharpness and want fast results diamond stones are a great option. Finally, do you only want to purchase one sharpening stone but use multiple ‘grits’? Why not opt for the Ardennes Coticule sharpening stone where the amount of slurry you create determines how fine you can sharpen.

Sharpening stone, whetstone, water stone: the meaning behind

The [Edge Pro Apex](kato://category/edgeproapexsystem) and the [KME Precision Knife Sharpening System](kato://category/kmesharpenersbrand) are both highly accurate and ingenious sharpening systems. But how do you choose between two sharpening systems that are both so close to perfection? In this side-by-side comparison, we'll explain all the similarities and differences.

## What's included with the Edge Pro Apex 1, 2, 3 and 4

The Edge Pro Apex sharpening system is available in four different versions. The base is the same, but the number of sharpening stones and other accessories differs. This allows you to choose which set best suits you and your budget.

## What's included with the KME D4 and R.P.S.H. COMBI KIT

The KME has only two versions. The [KME D4](kato://product/KMKF-D4) and the [KME R.P.S.H. COMBI KIT](kato://product/KMKF-CBO). The only difference between these two sharpening systems is the type of sharpening stones. The D4 has four diamond sharpening stones from 150 to 1500 grit. The R.P.S.H. COMBI KIT has one extra coarse diamond sharpening stone, two aluminium oxide sharpening stones, and one natural Hard Arkansas sharpening stone.

Because of these different versions of both sharpening systems, we will only discuss the fundamental differences and similarities between the basic sharpening systems in this comparison article.

Edge Pro Apex vs KME Precision Knife Sharpening System

## Why is M390 so wear and tear resistant?


To answer this question we need to look at the chemistry and the production process of this steel. First the way Böhler produces its M390. M390 is produced according to a powder metallurgical process. This requires some explanation.


Normally a manufacturer combines different elements in an alloy, pours out large blocks and flattens them to end up with sheets that can be used by knife manufacturers. Böhler, however, takes it up a notch. After putting these elements together they put them in a gas-atomizing machine which sprays the melted steel like a type of diffuser. The result is that the structure becomes much finer on a molecular level.


There are, of course, other manufacturers who have mastered this process. Take, for instance, Crucible with the CPM method or Carpenter which has called it the Micro Melt.


Afterwards you can check out the chemical composition of the steel. This is what M390 looks like:




| | |
| --- | --- |
| Carbon | 1.9 |
| Chrome | 20.0 |
| Molybdenum | 1.0 |
| Tungsten | 0.6 |
| Vanadium | 4.0 |
| Manganese | 0.3 |
| Silicon | 0.7 |


 


We can tell you a lot more about which element takes care of which qualities, and how a combination of specific elements ensure that you end up with the excellent qualities of M390, but we prefer to keep it simple and just mention the advantages!


## Advantages of Böhler M390


In addition to sharpness retention M390 has a few other fine qualities. It can be hardened to a relatively high hardness without it breaking quickly. This, however, doesn't mean that M390 is very tough. It does mean that M390, when compared to other types of steel, can be sharpened a little thinner.


M390 is also relatively stainless. Because of the large amount of chrome rust won't stand a chance. Especially when compared to other hard types of steel that are known for their sharpness retention but can still be affected by rust.


## Disadvantages of Böhler M390


Where there are advantages, there will also be disadvantages. M390, for instance, is relatively expensive. In terms of purchase price per kilo, but also in terms of modification. Wear and tear resistant namely also means hard to modify. As such you need more time to modify it, but your sanding belts will also wear out a lot faster. A knife made from M390 steel is therefore often more expensive than a knife made from a different type of steel.


M390 is also not that easy to sharpen. That is to say: you won't get very far by using a simple Arkansas stone. M390 prefers diamond-coated stones or ceramic options. Preferably under a very fixed angle. M390 is also not incredibly tough. It also isn't brittle, but you do need to take this into account.

Böhler M390 steel: what is it and why is it so popular?

As soon as temperatures drop below zero people start to think about ice skating. Whether you go out for fun, enjoy figure or speed skating, it is an activity that can be enjoyed by everyone. Let’s say you own a pair of skates and can’t wait to go out to enjoy the first ice of the season. How do you make sure that when you do you will glide over the ice like the pro you are?  That is where Knivesandtools comes in handy. After all, we are experts when it comes to sharpening ice skates. Because yes, you can only impress others at the rink if you have sharp skates. Well, that and perhaps some skills..


## When do you need to sharpen ice skates?


You sharpen skates when they are blunt. It is, however, difficult to pinpoint exactly when that will be. This firstly depends – yes, obviously – on how often you use the skates. But which skates you use is also something that contributes to how often you need to sharpen them. Factors that determine how quickly skates need to be sharpened are the type of steel used, the hardness of the steel and the sharpening angle used (the thinner the grind, the faster steel wears out). More about that later.


## Sharpening skates with sharpening stones


Most skaters sharpen their skates with sharpening stones. Which stones are best depends on the material of your skates. There are, for instance, stainless steel skates with a hardness of 57 HRC, while there are also (professional) skates on the market made from powder metallurgic steel. This is extremely hard steel, with a hardness of approximately 66 HRC, but this type of steel is also very brittle. In between you also have carbon steel (non-stainless), with a hardness of 60 HRC and High Speed Steel (HSS, 62 HRC). If you own skates with irons made from very hard steel it is wise to use a diamond-coated sharpening stone. Professional skaters often use [DMT-sharpening stones](kato://content/migrated_pageid_400), for instance. [Ceramic sharpening](kato://content/migrated_pageid_354) stones are also great to sharpen hard types of steel (but are not as strong as diamond-coated stones). Do you own stainless steel skates made from steel that is not that hard? If so you could also use other [sharpening stones](kato://content/migrated_pageid_343) such as stone made with aluminium oxide and carbide.


## Use a sharpening table


We would love to say that it is easier (and cheaper) to secure your skates in a vice but we can’t avoid it: if you want to sharpen your skates properly you will need a sharpening table. In it you hang your skates upside down next to each other, to make sure the base of the irons is pointing up. A sharpening table is enhanced with plates you can place the iron of the skates against, to secure the skates afterwards. Because the plates have the same height on both sides the skates will hang at exactly the same height. As such you cannot only sharpen them at the same time you can also sharpen them evenly. That is why a double vice won’t work, also because a vice doesn’t have room for the shoe of the skates.

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